The areaThe area

Sheep in the field

Early morning at the lake

Sierra Golf Club

Welcome to Kaszubia

Kaszubia, just to the west of Gdańsk, is one of Poland’s most breathtakingly beautiful regions. An undulating land of lakes, forests and meadows, it is often called “Swiss Kaszubia” in order to convey the full sense of its Arcadian splendour and rich tapestry of tradition.

While its easily accessible – almost the whole region is within an hour by car of Gdańsk and the Baltic coast – much of Kaszubia’s charm comes from its feeling of remoteness and the measured march of the seasons across its striking post-glacial landscape.

Deep, clear lakes left behind by the retreating glaciers are the defining features of the region and there are scores of them, some tiny enough to wade across and others several miles long and as deep as 50 metres. Nearly all offer good fishing with pike, trout, bream and eel the most common catches.

Best of all perhaps is that but for a few weeks in mid-summer the lakes are quiet and peaceful enough to hear a swan glide across the water or frogs croak away in some distant reeds or the splash of oars as a fisherman guides his flat-bottomed boat to a favored spot.

This stillness can be found too in forests that fringe the lakes and if you are quiet for long enough you may see a deer step cautiously into glade or a fox trot briskly and purposefully about his business. Equally likely is a plaintive cuckoo’s call or the shrill cry of a red kite in the top branches of a towering spruce tree.

Because of its topography and poor soils Kaszubia has never supported large-scale farming or a landed aristocracy and the scale of farming endeavours adds a rustic charm to areas not still in forest. The average farm size is no more than 5 hectares and few farmers have more than two or three cows which they graze is small pastures or roadside verges that are often a waving seas of yellow or blue or red wildflowers. Timbered farmhouses with thatched roofs are still not uncommon and horses are used to till fields or carry a clutch of silver milk cans to the nearest dairy depot.

Winding dirt roads snake their way from village to village, carrying so little traffic that they are a pleasure to walk or cycle along at any time of the year. This rural peacefulness and the solitude of large unpopulated spaces is all most people are looking for. But if Arcadia becomes too much then the heart of Kuszubia is just 40 minutes drive away from Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia. It’s only a little longer drive to the Baltic coast and Malbork with it famous brick castle – just an hour and a half. There are even three fine golf courses within an hour of us. And the international airport at Gdańsk with daily flights to more than half a dozen European cities is just 30 minutes from the lodge.

And of course, scattered about Kaszubia itself are pockets of more modern enterprise; fashionware producers, makers of exquisite furniture, ceramics, to name but a few. Many a vistor has been surprised to find herself going home with a new coat that would cost three times as much abroad or even in Warsaw or a handsomely-carved chest of drawers.

But come first and foremost to listen to the silence.